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With La Fourchaume Premier Cru Chablis, it seems as if Romain and Damien Bouchard have written a kind-hearted treatise on the mandarin. The aromas of the essential oils in its skin are revealed, as well as the fruit-laden yellow-orange flesh of its fruit. This is echoed in a bowl of fruit desserts with yellow apple and white currants, as well as pine nuts and a hint of basil. On the palate, the 2018 La Fourchaume from Domaine de l'Enclos, for all its citrusy freshness, is full-bodied. Lawful acidity and creamy texture bring to light a wine that is as powerful as it is agile, telling stories of Kimmeridge limestone in a full, yet gentle voice.