Pio Cesare Barolo 'Mosconi' 2018

Pio Boffa bought himself a "small" present for his 60th birthday. Not a new set of golf clubs, a picture hanging in the hall, a holiday for him and the family. No. Just a vineyard called Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba, a Piedmont region where four Pio Cesare dynasty generations never gained a foothold. Initially, the grapes from the 10-hectare vineyard were to enhance the quality of his classic Barolo. Still, after the first barrel samples, it was unmistakably clear to Pio Boffa that this would be at least an equal if stylistically different counterpart to the hitherto undisputed flagship Ornato.

Mosconi is more light-footed than Ornato, with red rather than black fruits dominating the nose and irresistible licorice and juiciness that will immediately earn it a top place in the entire appellation. On the palate, it has unparalleled precision, less punchy than Ornato, but more elegant and subtle.

95 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Compared to the Ornato, the 2018 Barolo Mosconi (with fruit from Monforte d'Alba) shows a tighter and more compact quality with a direct, linear and powerful approach. The bouquet builds in vertical intensity, starting with tart fruit aromas and culminating with tar, rusted nail and camphor ash. That aromatic ascent comes at you quickly, and the wine ultimately settles on a very wide, all-encompassing performance.

95 Points - James Suckling

Very compact both on the nose and palate, offering dried red berries and notes of truffle-tinged sous-bois and dried flowers. Full-bodied with a fine-tannin framework and a very long finish. Compact and solid. This needs plenty of time to open but shows real class. Try from 2025.

94 Points - Wine Spectator

Rich, with plum and cherry flavours, this Barolo also shows a savoury side of eucalyptus, licorice and clove. It reveals viscosity to the texture as well as terrific balance. It ends with dense, refined tannins, lingering steeped fruit, and savoury notes.