98+ Points - Jeb Dunnuck From the estate’s property in Serralunga d’Alba, the 2017 Barolo Sperss is fresh with pine, perfectly ripe cherry, leather, and aniseed. It has classic Serralunga structure without being imposing, with ripe up-front fruit of dried raspberry as well as tea leaf, and refreshing acidity on the finish. It is layered with depth, but is remarkably drinkable now.
98 Points - James Suckling Very intense aromas of roasted hazelnuts with dried flowers, tar and fruit. Full-bodied and very tight with a solid core of chewy yet refined tannins, this is a classically proportioned Barolo that displays superb structure and length. A thoroughly great wine.
96 Points - Decanter In 2017, according to Rossana Gaja, Sperss was picked almost a month after the start of the harvest on 18 September. Coming from Serralunga, this interpretation of Barolo exhibits a dark profile of earthy tones and chocolate, with graceful jam-like cherry, orange peel and violet. Thick and extracted on the mid-palate with crisp acidity, the structure is perfectly woven into its restrained plummy fruits and liquorice finish. It's not showing much poise at present, but clearly has a long life ahead. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.
96 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Following so quickly after the celestial 2016 vintage, this Gaja 2017 Barolo Sperss shows muscle and brawn; however, the Conteisa holds its own in terms of aromatic complexity. With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, that added concentration and determination are expected, especially in a hot and dry vintage such as 2017. Here you get dark cherry fruit with cassis and wild plum. There are also floral aromas that veer toward red rose more than they do violets or blue flowers. And, of course, you get some of those iron-rich or mineral notes of rusty nail or iron that are often associated with Sperss.
95 Points - Vinous The 2017 Barolo Sperss is a powerful, backward wine. In 2017 Sperss is not as huge as in some previous years, but then again, the move towards greater finesse has been in place for some time now. In tasting, Sperss feels more extracted and tannic than Conteisa (even after allowing for the clear differences in site), with a strong oak imprint that is also pretty evident. Sage, tobacco, scorched earth and spice meld into a core of dark Serralunga fruit in this imposing Barolo from Gaja. Give it a few years to soften.
95 Points - Wine Spectator A fluid style, this red displays cherry, raspberry, currant, earth and tobacco flavors. Iron and tar accents join in as the dense swath of tannins adds closure. Overall, this is light on its feet, intense and lively, hanging together nicely. Best from 2025 through 2048. 1,500 cases made.
94 Points - Wine Enthusiast This full-bodied red has aromas of scorched earth, French oak and a hint of camphor. The tightly wound palate features oak-driven sensations of espresso and coconut as well as red cherry, star anise and a hint of nutmeg before an almost salty finish. Assertive, close-grained tannins grip the close. Drink 2025–2032.
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