This riesling is a blend of fruit from high altitude sites—including the brilliantly named Sandgrub vineyard—dotted around the village. There’s a good dollop of wine from Wasseros too, a steep, southwest-facing vineyard that abuts the Grafenberg vines. The soils of these sites are typically composed of stony, fragmented phyllite interlaced with loess and loam. Even at a refreshing 12%, the riesling has excellent depth for this level. The layered, peachy fruit beautifully complements the wine’s vibrant, quenching acidity and saline length.